Jun 2011


You can’t really take them. I mean, you can, but the result is less than it could be. Sometimes it’s worth the extra time taken to make your work stand out.

Take the time to link your color transitions. It’s worth it.

German Panzerfausts

Doing a mix of camo and feldgrau for uniforms. I wanted the Panzerfaust weapons to stand out and so they are painted for desert use. Call them “Afrika Corps surplus”.

Colors are P3 unless specified otherwise

Uniform: Greatcoat Grey, Greatcoat Grey + Jack Bone, OR Greatcoat Grey, Umbral Umber + Jack Bone, OR Umbral Umber + Jack Bone. Umbral uniform pieces get Oak Leaf camo and hopefully I’ll do it better this time.
Boots, Leather Acc.: Umbral Umber
Skin: 5-step recipe as found here
Helmet, Gas Mask Canister: Thornwood Green
Bedroll: Jack Bone, Bloodtracker Brown + Jack Bone
Poncho bag (?): Bastion Grey
Canteen: Bloodtracker Brown, Black
Wood: Bloodstone
Gunmetal: Black, Bastion Grey
Panzerfaust: Iyanden Darksun (Citadel Foundation)

Plus appropriate highlights and shadow mixes. Pics to come.

German Camo

Found this page, which is an excellent guide (by Simon Hooker and Evan, thank you, guys!) to painting WWII-style camo in any scale: http://www.flamesofwar.com/hobby.aspx?art_id=285

It’s considerably easier than it looks, just have to get the dark underpatches large enough to put the light color plus dark spots back on top.

My adapted recipe for Oak Leaf Spring (all are P3 colors):
Base - Umbral Umber + ‘Jack Bone
Dark - Gnarls Green
Light - Wurm Green

For some reason Sanguine Base looked right. At first. And then it dried and these guys have purple camo now. It still looks okay from table distance though.

Improving Things

All this is untested, but I have a theory that one either paints for the camera, or for the tabletop. Effects that need to be exaggerated to be seen under normal game lighting conditions appear garish and heavy-handed under the revealing flash of the camera. Conversely, subtle color shifts, shading, etc that turn out beautiful in pictures are completely plowed under by the relative gloom of a well-lit room and observation from several feet distant.

I’m going to test this out with two figures from the next batch. I’ll pick identical sculpts, and do one ‘normally’ and the other ‘subtle’, and see what happens. I’m also going to try to slow down a little, so hopefully it’ll all get better. Kamtraya!

Using Macrophotography

You might think, like me, that you’re doing quite well and painting like an inspired maniac. It’s always helpful at times like those to borrow a good camera and take a few pictures of your “amazing work”. Then you’ll see the truth that you’re not nearly as good as you thought you were. Because the camera doesn’t care about your feelings, it has no bias.

The truth hurts, but one thing this self-inflicted wound can do is show you where you need to improve. In my own case, I need to work on being less sloppy, and on whatever the hell I’m doing wrong with my faces & hands. Maybe I just need to slow down a little.

Anyway, here’s what I’m talking about...



15mm US Troops Recipe

Ordic Olive - Uniform
Elf Flesh - Face/Hands
Bloodstone (red-brown) - Boots and figure base
Flesh Wash (Chestnut Ink) - shadows for eyes, around nose, hands, wrists, also Boots
Elf Flesh - clean up Face/Hands, highlight top of nose, cheeks, finger tops, etc
Umbral Umber (dark brown) - Wood
Snakebite Leather - Leather accessories, also Wood highlight
Black - Weapons
Battle Dress Green (brown/grey green) - Helmets
Thrall Flesh - Helmet highlights
Ordic Olive - clean up Uniform
Cryx Bane Base (dark green/grey) Wash (blend with medium, not water) - Uniform shadows and lines
Wurm Green (yellow-green) - Uniform highlights
Rucksack Tan (light tan) - Boot highlights, also Leather highlights
Cryx Bane Highlight (grey) - Weapon highlights  
Matte varnish

So yeah. Glad I put this up somewhere else, cos I can’t find my notes on it. And that would have sucked.